101 Greatest L.A. Dining places of 2020

By Patricia Escárcega “Fortune favors the brave” could possibly as well have been created about

“Fortune favors the brave” could possibly as well have been created about David Wilcox, who formerly operated the formidable but ill-fated Atwater Village cafe Journeyman. In 2018, as a last-ditch effort to preserve the restaurant, Wilcox transformed it into a pizzeria. The gamble paid off. Hail Mary Pizza specializes in funky, char-edged pies with blistery, chewy, quickly digestible crusts constructed from purely natural levain and full grains.

The Pep Pep, with pork chorizo, peppers and honey, is a sophisticated and lush constellation of sweet and spicy flavors. The Westside-impressed Giust-oh is brilliantly paved with feta and Mornay sauce and smooth, starchy bites of potato, chard and lemon zest, though the anchovy-as well as-jalapeño combo of the Frederick is a gleeful smack of cheesy, briny heat. Salads are built from the finest farmers current market produce — just lately there was a pretty autumnal blend of ultra-fresh new dandelion greens tossed with squash and pomegranate seeds. Desserts, which include the home brownies and the almond-crusted Basque cake with pastry product on the facet, are cause more than enough to connect with for takeout.

Outdoors the kitchen, Wilcox is a fervent advocate for independent eating places, and has experimented with profit-sharing designs in an energy to counter the industrywide pay back disparities among front- and back again-of-dwelling roles. But you do not have to have to know any of this to savor the pizza, which is some of the most distinctive and pleasant in Los Angeles.