November 28, 2022


Be Inspired By Food

Amid COVID, Small Saigon restaurants continue to keep cooking for totally free

The male in the beanie cap and frayed sweater rolled up in his late-design SUV, leaning out the window on the driver’s aspect.

“They explained to us to occur listed here for the food. Is this the correct position?” Tan Nguyen questioned as he surveyed the high university volunteer handing out incredibly hot lunches at the Recess Space cafe in Fountain Valley.

He and his spouse, Susan Tran, live by yourself and are sheltering in Santa Ana. He’s 81, and Susan is 84. She’s fallen on her hip and has dizzy spells, so cooking is a problem. But a company like Foods on Wheels isn’t an choice for them. They don’t try to eat macaroni or product of mushroom soup preserved with lots of sodium.

Nguyen and Tran eyed the packaged foods — aromatic porridge and rotisserie rooster — with hope. A number of minutes later, a college student who experienced been serenading the seniors with her violin as they waited in the cafe parking large amount on a wintry Sunday positioned some sealed containers in their fingers. She talked to them about the food distribution program. Over their masks, the couple’s eyes imparted their thanks.

Although seniors in Orange County’s Vietnamese communities can accessibility donations from regional foods pantries, “it’s not the exact flavor. They are utilized to new, regular cooking that just isn’t readily available with cans. This is the flavor of home,” claimed Danny Tran, operator of Son Fish Sauce, which has given 5 pallets of the condiment utilised in all method of Vietnamese cooking to the Recess Space.

“We will need to nourish our elders, particularly at this time,” he stated. “They are the kinds whose sacrifices enable us to be in this article. They have to have to be healthful.”

These companies and the people who operate them are component of an casual network feeding a community all through an unprecedented disaster theirs are grassroots attempts that may perhaps not have captivated considerably awareness. In this article are some of their tales.


When would-be visitors exploration the heritage of the Orange County cultural district known as Minor Saigon, soaring in the middle of when blooming citrus groves and strawberry fields, they possibly aren’t encountering reviews on the Recess Space, a single of its newer hotspots. But in the shutdown sparked by COVID-19, the hip, Asian-infused eatery has remodeled into the enclave’s “most generous” cafe with charity functions managed “with the precision of an accountant,” according to locals on Facebook.

Viet Pham, Kim Phuong Huynh, Linh Pham and Kim Huynh prepare meals

From remaining, Viet Pham, Kim Phuong Huynh, Linh Pham and Kim Huynh prepare foods for senior citizens and men and women in require in the kitchen area of their family’s Fountain Valley cafe, the Recess Area.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Moments)

Just about every other Sunday, a team of youthful volunteers comes by breakfast time. They tackle prep operate, setting up pop-up canopies outside the house the former Coco’s, just after proprietor Viet Pham, his mom and older sister have unloaded groceries and started out rinsing, chopping, slicing, steaming and frying. The family members purchases 300 lbs of rice for each week, on top of meat and develop and three scenarios of takeout luggage.

“Any time you prepare dinner for 500 it’s powerful. It takes eight to 10 several hours, relying on how big your pots are,” Pham explained.

His family has teamed with Transferring Ahead Together, a local community coalition, combining their individual resources with non-public donations from sources these types of as Sysco and Cafe Depot, to offer almost 60,000 absolutely free foods since the world-wide pandemic started very last March. The monthly bill for every giveaway ranges from $5,000 to $6,000.

Organizers get the phrase out by way of social media or direct referrals. They try “never to change people today who truly want it” absent. In the meantime, the Recess Space has remained open up for takeout and shipping and delivery.

“There’s no query we want to give again,” said Huong Pham, motioning to her brother while wiping her herb-flecked palms on a dish towel. “It’s the only thing we can do to sense much better for the reason that in any other case, we really feel so helpless.”

“We’re offering an chance for men and women to love a cafe-cooked meal,” Viet Pham included. “We make positive not to minimize corners we give some thing we would try to eat ourselves.”


Each individual month, hundreds of 5-liter jugs of umami-laced sauce make their way — for cost-free — to spot dining places and small-money homes. The donors are Danny Tran and his wife, Albee, cofounder and CEO, respectively, of Son Fish Sauce, which is manufactured on little Hon Son Island in the Gulf of Thailand and is a staple in all Vietnamese kitchens. (The company has 13 warehouses in the United States.)

Albee Tran happens to be the excellent-granddaughter of Khon Van Pham, a legendary fish sauce maker. And with all the every day stressors to keep nourished, the few want to make positive that house cooks and cooks will need not stress about source.

“I convey to men and women that you don’t have to use our item later on on. We did not want this to be some kind of advertisement. We saw that lots of minority communities are finding enable by the governing administration — but not the Bolsa [Avenue] community,” Danny Tran extra, alluding to Very little Saigon’s major thoroughfare. “We want to develop ourselves up.”

Albee and Danny Tran, CEO and cofounder, respectively, of Son Fish Sauce

Albee and Danny Tran, CEO and cofounder, respectively, of Son Fish Sauce deliver hundreds of jugs of their staple — a Vietnamese kitchen area staple — to spot restaurants and small-profits households.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

The moment in a even though, Tran squeezes in deliveries of donated masks together with the nuoc mam to assist persons in “staying coated.” He also sponsors a Vietnamese household cooking group with virtually 10,000 customers arranged through social media. “When we get a get in touch with for items, we usually respond.”

“It’s a easy providing — and we are grateful,” stated Hang Ngo, a grandmother of 3 who obtained 10 bottles to share with her sons in Midway Town and Fullerton. “We are unable to prepare dinner or dip anything at all we cook with no this savory sauce.”


Uniting through the goodness of food items reminds Thuy Vo Dang of Vietnamese refugees, new to the United States, who began forming mutual aid associations in the 1970s and ‘80s to aid with resettlement. The teams promoted spouse and children self-sufficiency together with empowering communities and “that spirit of mobilizing, stepping up for those people who could not navigate for themselves, that seriously emerged in this crisis instant,” mentioned Dang, the curator of UCI’s Southeast Asian Archive.

She stated she’s “not at all amazed that one of the additional good and heartwarming matters to occur out of the pandemic is this heading all alongside one another. Language and culture have a way of bringing people today to the table.”

Past spring, weeks just after the Planet Health and fitness Firm considered the outbreak of COVID-19 to be a pandemic, Sister Thuy Tran, a Catholic nun assigned to the mission integration division at Mission Medical center in Mission Viejo, commenced accumulating dry products. Rice. Ramen. Hand sanitizer. Seaweed. She knew the Vietnamese neighborhood desired to shell out consideration to its seniors because “clearly, they’re the most isolated, most vulnerable.” She sought reinforcement from her sister, the chef/proprietor of the acclaimed restaurant Garlic & Chives, with places in Artesia and Back garden Grove.

Kristin Nguyen leaped into motion, expending a lot of Thursdays in the restaurant kitchen area stirring up very hot meals with teriyaki salmon, garlicky rice and noodles, then portioning them for her sibling to select up and provide to inhabitants of convalescent properties, together with 1st responders. She lined each individual week’s prices, about $10,000 by way of the months.

“Listen, these are the people whose people simply cannot pay a visit to, not just for a shorter time but a extensive time. They have no relationship to a thing acquainted, and they want to eat wholesome. We supplied that,” Nguyen reported, all the though offering Garlic & Chives takeout and struggling to keep her businesses and staff afloat.

Nhi Huynh, Huong Pham, Kim Huynh and Viet Pham, stand with about 600 Han Vi meals

From left, Nhi Huynh, Huong Pham, Kim Huynh and Viet Pham, stand with about 600 Han Vi foods to be distributed to senior citizens and people in have to have at their family’s Fountain Valley restaurant, the Recess Place.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Moments)

Later on in the 12 months, Tran and neighborhood activist Katie Nguyen Kalvoda, cofounders of the nonprofit Advance OC, assisted to raise above $100,000 to dish up additional than 4,000 meals sent on two Saturdays throughout the holidays, with an support from Garlic & Chives and 24 other dining places, among them Minor Saigon’s Song Extended and Pholicious.

“This work seriously speaks to the energy and passion of the folks,” Tran explained. “We experienced more than 900 — of course, 900 — volunteers indicator up to supply meals. They’re so astounding.”


As Tan Nguyen drove absent from the takeout lane at the Recess Home, Paul Hoang, a volunteer at the occasion, waved goodbye. It was not his initial experience with feeding the group. Almost a yr back, Hoang, a medical social worker, opened his wallet to spend for broken rice and meat foods for up to 85 seniors who’d been remaining scrambling by the danger of the virus in Tiny Saigon.

In April, Hoang introduced Moving Ahead Jointly, a nonprofit spin-off of his consulting agency, Shifting Ahead Psychological Institute, Inc., in Fountain Valley, to assist feed the needy and present them social and psychological wellness assets. “At diverse instances, we get 5- or 6- or 700 folks asking for aid, and what are we intended to do?” he asked. “I experienced to get in touch with in youth teams and activist groups and meals suppliers to lend a hand. Some of them, we have under no circumstances satisfied, yet they immediately said yes. People’s wellness is at possibility.”

Pham, the restaurateur, claimed he will make confident all volunteers, like Hoang, depart effectively-fed. The two men tapped on their cell phone calendars, quietly scheduling logistics for a different weekend as the battered Hondas and minivans surged forward with travellers keen for sustenance.