Cafe Critique: Tom Colicchio’s Vallata in Union Square

The problem with Tom Colicchio’s new cafe, Vallata, is not the cooking, most of which

The problem with Tom Colicchio’s new cafe, Vallata, is not the cooking, most of which is pretty excellent and some of which is great. All of it is Italian, in a rustic trattoria model primarily based on components plucked from the Union Sq. Greenmarket, a couple of blocks from Vallata’s spot on East 19th Street. “Colicchio cooks Italian” may well not be a revolutionary notion, but at minimum it’s a coherent a single that has not been experimented with prior to.

The hassle is that the food stuff raises anticipations for the relaxation of the practical experience that Mr. Colicchio does not stick to by on, or even seems informed of. The cooking puts Vallata in immediate competition with By using Carota, Lilia, Misi, Vic’s and Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria, for starters. Every single of people destinations has an environment that is calibrated to pull you into a person vision of European everyday dining or a further, from the architect-developed farmhouse glimpse of Misi to the “Antiques Roadshow” muddle of Through Carota.

Just after opening in April as a temporary pop-up, Vallata is getting permanent status, Mr. Colicchio stated in a telephone phone on Monday. It hasn’t been offered an atmosphere of its individual, however. The dining room, up coming door to Mr. Colicchio’s flagship, Craft, is an awkward pastiche of bland, vaguely corporate structure and odd decorative hand-me-downs that have served time in other Colicchio dining places.

The common cliché about restaurants in the rustic-Italian genre, immortalized in dozens of Zagat blurbs, is that having there is like a excursion to Italy without the airfare. Vallata manages to convert the cliché on its head: You really do not feel for a second that you’ve still left New York, but you do commence to believe the restaurant by itself could use a holiday vacation.

Mr. Colicchio may well nicely consider Vallata’s cooking is powerful more than enough to get by on its possess charms. He wouldn’t be significantly off. He and his cooks have been shopping for from farmers at Union Square considering that the 1990s, and the food stuff he’s most effective acknowledged for has normally been deeply knowledgeable by the minimalist strain in Italian cooking. At Craft in specific, he leaned on Italian cooking and steakhouse tropes to split away from the French nouvelle delicacies model of sauced and garnished plates that experienced been the default fashion in formidable American dining places because the 1980s.

And so it is no shock to get a bowlful of Romano beans at Vallata that have been braised and then dressed with a pulp of ripe, warmed tomatoes. What you don’t really count on, though, is just how supple the beans are — not crunchy or mushy, but nearly as silky as new pasta, and just as great at carrying the sauce.

Young, just-budding artichokes are mandolined into shavings not significantly thicker than the wings of a dragonfly. They sit in lemon juice, contemporary mint and extra than a pinch of dried chile flakes right until they reduce their squeak but not their crunch. There are only a handful of weeks a year when you can come across artichokes worthy of taking in this way, and only a few restaurants that hold out for these weeks to roll all around. It is a gift to have a new one particular in city.

The salad of summer squash slash into slender belts and dressed with a deeply fragrant pressure of basil evokes summer months every single bit as intensely, although in a quieter way. You can adhere to that dish with one more tribute to basil: the prolonged, dangling strands of strozzapreti thickly dressed with pesto, and not encounter any monotony at all.

Cacio e pepe experienced been cooked a very little much too extensive the evening I tried it. But the hand-rolled cavatelli were beautifully agency for clinging to the tangy braise of shredded oxtails with raisins and a bittersweet undertow of cocoa.

As at Craft, dishes are served spouse and children-design and style, at least in the way that restaurants outline that term. Most actual family members would want additional than a few meatballs for the desk. But at Vallata, each and every is about the dimensions of a baseball. Created with veal and ricotta, they are the shade of ivory on the inside. These admirably tender cheese-and-meat dumplings sit in adequate tomato gravy that I discovered myself making use of each slices of grilled sourdough to soak it up, and then wishing I hadn’t eaten the overall piece of focaccia the moment it arrived.

A lot more grilled bread is served alongside the hen braised with red peppers and tomatoes. It appears to be like watery, but with a single taste you recognize that the “water” is the result of trapping all the flavors of hen and greens in the pan. It is an astonishing dish.

There might be much too much struggle still left in the thicket of broccoli rabe that dominates a plate of skinny lamb sausages. But most of the menu is good sufficient to make you wish that as substantially hard work experienced been set into other features of the cafe.

You start to wonder how fully commited Mr. Colicchio is to the notion right before you wander via the doorway. The identify Vallata hangs in the window, but it’s a lot less seen than the Craft Private Dining sign. Two guests who had been making an attempt to satisfy me at Vallata were being so perplexed they walked two doors down into Craft, to talk to directions.

Mr. Colicchio renovated the non-public dining region soon just before Covid arrived. In the age of the pandemic pivot, nobody will fault him for turning it into a restaurant when the non-public-dining small business evaporated. But so significantly, he hasn’t supplied Vallata a identity of its have. The cooks, led by Bryan Hunt, who operates culinary functions for Mr. Colicchio’s cafe team, stand aspect by side struggling with the eating home. They glance like contestants on a game clearly show established in the breakfast-buffet place of an upscale chain lodge.

The only touch that evokes a trattoria is the brown butcher-paper on the tables. The walls are hung with a few paintings of cows that have been a short while ago relocated from just one of Mr. Colicchio’s Las Vegas dining establishments. If you are hoping the audio will established the mood, ignore it. The playlist shambles from Paul Simon to Billy Joel to Echo and the Bunnymen to David Bowie. It is as if Mr. Colicchio experienced introduced in a combine tape he found inside an aged Walkman in his basement.

An Italian restaurant overseen by Tom Colicchio justifies its possess playlist. It justifies a home of its possess, as well. You want to think he’s psyched about the venture. But there’s little sign of that, so as an alternative you marvel if maybe you shouldn’t go eat at a further restaurant where by the cooking follows around the same strains and the men and women in cost seem to be to be, you know, into it.

What the Stars Imply Simply because of the pandemic, restaurants are not becoming presented star rankings.