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  • Three new shops to watch from Hearth to GetRight’s and Noisette
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Three new shops to watch from Hearth to GetRight’s and Noisette

By Eva F. Wylie 4 weeks ago

For a city with such a serious baking obsession, Denver started out on a much slower burn.

We used to have what every other urban center could claim: a smattering of beloved neighborhood shops, plus the occasional destination baked good to seek out.

Then, over the course of the pandemic, our collective baking lust led to an explosion of cottage bakeries, baking Instagram accounts and bake sales, the likes of which we hadn’t seen since junior high.

Thanks to Colorado’s Cottage Foods Act, social justice fundraisers and social media, everyone from enthusiasts to pros started baking comfort foods and finding their own dedicated audience. By the end of 2020, pastry and bread devotees were even waiting outside of some Denver bakeries for hours just to get a bite.

Now many of these small-business success stories that came about during the baking boom of 2020 are graduating into full-scale bricks-and-mortar restaurants and shops.

Bittersweetly, they replace the businesses that closed before them in the pandemic. But they’re bringing a renewed energy to the dining scene — scratch that, to the baking scene — that Denver didn’t know it was fermenting all these years.

Here are three new bakeries worth getting in line for over the coming months.

Hearth

Before starting Hearth, Matt Quinlisk worked as the pastry chef at Moxie Bread Co. in Louisville, learning everything he possibly could from Andy Clark, who Quinlisk considers a main source of Colorado’s current baking craze. From Clark, Quinlisk learned the importance of sourcing and milling local grains and using that homemade flour in fresh-baked bread.

“A beautiful, poetic, big country sourdough loaf,” is the way he describes the kind of bread he’ll sell at Hearth when it opens later this month, at 2500 Lawrence St. in Five Points. “I think it’s a really cool time to be a baker in Denver, and I think there are so many options for high-quality products,” Quinlisk said. “There really hasn’t been a better time to utilize local grain and really up the bread game in Colorado, and nationally, too.”

When Hearth debuts in the space previously occupied by Third Culture Bakery, Quinlisk will sell his own bags of flour, various sourdough loaves and baguettes, plus bagels, a spread of pastries, shortbreads, cookies and house-made granolas. He’s been perfecting his own spin on their recipes over the past two years, by selling them wholesale to local coffee shops and direct to customers at farmers markets. Once the place is up and running, Quinlisk will start serving lunch in the garden space behind his shop and the restaurant Uchi, where Altius Farms grows herbs and seasonal flowering plants.

Hearth, 2500 Lawrence St., Denver, 781-710-1569. Opening late July, with farmers market stands in City Park, Highland, Union Station, Arvada and Golden throughout summer. hearthdenver.co

Noisette

By August, Lillian Lu and her husband, Tim, will open a French-inspired bakery and restaurant in the same space where There closed in 2020. The new restaurant owners worked together in New York City before deciding to move to Colorado in 2018 to be closer to family. While their plan all along was to open a restaurant and bakery of their own, the Lus honed their skills by first working in the kitchens of Crema Coffee House and Beckon, respectively.

“We had heard Denver had a burgeoning culinary scene, so we definitely wanted to go somewhere that was moving forward in that way,” Lillian said. “And we always knew that we wanted to do French food. The French style of baking is a little bit lighter and a little bit softer. And then for the restaurant, (we’re following) a tradition of mothers’ and grandmothers’ cooking. So the dishes will be quite homey in flavor, I think.”

At Noisette (French for hazelnut and pronounced Nwa-set), they’ll provide coffee and pastries — from a signature hazelnut chocolate éclair to macarons and cannelés — as well as baguettes from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. each day, before switching to dinner service on the other side of the shop starting at 5 p.m.

“I’m not going to do anything with a starter as of yet,” Lillian said, “but will have baguette and brioche. And I love making chocolates, so a selection of bonbons and macarons and maybe some French cookies as well.”

Noisette, 3254 Navajo St., Denver, 720-769-8103. Restaurant coming early August; bakery coming by late August. noisettedenver.com

GetRight’s

You’d be hard-pressed to find a more emblematic, pandemic-era hospitality story than that of Matt Dulin. The former Uncle sous chef went from cooking nightly for a hit local restaurant to selling houseplants and sourdough bread out of his Denver home. He dabbled in street markets, picked up odd landscaping jobs, and polled his bread customers on what they were most looking to buy from their favorite local, unemployed chefs. The answer, he found, was mostly pastries and baked goods.

“I didn’t want to get into pastries because I don’t have a background in pastry anything,” Dulin said. “I started with a shortbread cookie, plum gallette and coffee cake. And it was all the sweet things that drew people in. In the beginning, I wanted to simplify my life and my offerings: just sourdough bread, that’s it. And then I just kept trying new things every week … and I realized the process was the kind of thing I could fall in love with.”

At GetRight’s, which has gained a loyal following of bread, baked good and pastry — not to mention houseplant — buyers, Dulin gets to combine a number of passions, last but not least of which is cooking dinner for a community around him. This season he started selling out intimate backyard dinners that Dulin and his wife, Lindsey Judd, serve behind their family home. They invite local chef-friends to cook for some of the meals; for others, Dulin breaks out the savory skills himself.

It’s all building toward the opening of GetRight’s brick-and-mortar bake shop, lunch cafe and occasional rooftop dinner spot, which will be ready at 6985 W. 38th Ave. in Wheat Ridge sometime this fall. By the time it’s open, Dulin will have worked for about three years to get that balance of his own passions and those of his customer base just right.

“It’s a lot of learning not to force stuff even though you’re still trying to constantly push,” Dulin said. “I think it’s a lot of ego and let-down combined into one that keeps you in check. Without both of them, I think you wouldn’t get the progression that you need for a business to actually grow and develop.”

GetRight’s, currently operating remotely, moving to 6985 W. 38th Ave., Wheat Ridge by fall. 808-640-5319. Weekly bake and delivery/pickup. Twice-monthly backyard garden dinners. Check the website for the latest, goodygetright.com.

Golfeados or sticky buns, Portuguese-Venezuelan pastries, at Reunion Bread Co, on Sept. 11, 2019.

(Photo by AAron Ontiveroz, The Denver Post)

Golfeados or sticky buns, Portuguese-Venezuelan pastries, at Reunion Bread Co, on Sept. 11, 2019.

10 more must-try Denver-area bakeshops

Looking for more evidence of Denver’s booming bakery scene? Head to any of the spots below.

Babettes, 2030 Ionosphere St., Longmont, 720-204-7420. Open Wednesday-Saturday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. babettesbakery.com (closed July 13-27 for vacation; back on July 28)

Bakery Four, 4150 Tennyson St., Denver. Open Thursday-Sunday from 8 a.m. until sold out. bakeryfour.com

Bánh & Butter, 9935 E Colfax Ave., Aurora, 720-513-9313. Open Sunday-Thursday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Friday and Saturday 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. banhandbutter.com

Dry Storage, 3601 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder, 720-420-0918. Open Tuesday-Sunday 8 a.m.-3 p.m. drystorageco.com

La Fillette Bakery, 4416 E 8th Ave., Denver, 303-355-0022. Open Monday and Tuesday 7 a.m.-2 p.m., Wednesday-Friday 7 a.m.-3 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. lafillettebakery.com

Moxie Bread Co., 641 Main St, Louisville, 720-420-9616. Open 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. moxiebreadco.com

Poulette Bakeshop, 19585 Hess Road, Parker, 303-955-5647. Open Wednesday-Saturday 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. poulettebakeshop.com

Rebel Bread, 675 S. Broadway, Denver. Open Friday-Sunday 8 a.m. to noon. rebelbreadco.com

Reunion Bread Co., 3350 Brighton Blvd., Denver, 720-620-9336. Open Tuesday-Friday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sunday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. reunionbread.square.site

Tokyo Premium Bakery, 1540 S. Pearl St., Denver, 720-531-3784. Open second and fourth Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays 6 a.m. to 4 p.m., Friday-Sunday 6 a.m. to 4 p.m. tokyopremiumbakery.com

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